– No one opts out of something important – E24

Norwegian bunad traditions seem to be resistant to inflation and lower purchasing power.

For 25 years, Norske Bunader has supplied national costumes to the people.

Through their six stores in different parts of the country, they offer between 120 and 150 different bunads, in addition to bunad silver, shoes, ties, shirts and hair clips – to name a few.

– The period before 17 May is definitely the biggest holiday for us, and the period where there is the most demand here, says sales and marketing manager Esben Thyrum.

– How much of the turnover does this period account for?

– I would estimate around two thirds.

– Queue out of the store

It is quiet before the afternoon rush in the shop at Smestad in Oslo on this April day. Nevertheless, employees rush back and forth with suits that are going up to the tailors on the second floor or down in the basement for fitting.

– Most people arrive from 3 p.m. Some years there has been a queue out of the shop during the busiest periods here. Then it also happens that we make agreements outside opening hours, says Thyrum.

Marks high dollar exchange rate

The Norwegian krone had a weak year in 2023. Despite interest rate increases from Norges Bank, the trend has continued in 2024.

Central currencies such as the dollar and euro are now at record highs. It affects Norwegian companies that buy goods or services from abroad.

For Norske Bunader, it is the dollar price that has the greatest importance, according to Thyrum.

On the second floor of the shop, ten tailors work regularly throughout the year to complete and adapt garments. But the cutting and embroidery takes place in China.

– We pay for the services and transport in China in dollars. So the fact that the dollar price is high means something to us, says the sales and marketing manager.

Awaiting further growth

The most recently available accounts nevertheless show that the bunad store in the Smestad junction in Oslo has a solid operation.

Annual profit rose to more than NOK 14.5 million in 2022, up from approx. 8.7 million in 2021.

– We noticed a big upswing after the corona pandemic. It was clear that there were many people who had savings they could use, says Thyrum.

In the latest available annual report from 2022, a steady increase in demand is described. The company still expected an increase, but then “at a lower rate than previously”, it said.

– Do you notice that people in general have lower purchasing power?

– Actually, not very much. Most of the people who come here are happy to have put money aside in advance. Or they have grandparents who sponsor. No one opts out of something that is important to the bunad, but it is natural that you build on some accessories over time, explains Thyrum.

This applies, for example, to expensive buckles and so-called “consort belts” which consist of so-called studs (parts) in silver.

A room full of belt stacks

Downstairs at Norske Bunader, there is a separate room for belt stacks from Telemark that are ready to be delivered to customers. Bunaden has also been nicknamed Oslo 3-bunaden, after an old postcode in Oslo west.

It is also the most expensive bunad the store sells, according to Thyrum.

– It depends on what accessories you choose and so on, but the price can reach NOK 60,000, he says.

There is little doubt that there are great values ​​hanging around in Norwegian homes.

Back in 2017, the insurance company If estimated the value of Norwegian bunads at a whopping NOK 40 billion.

Opposing trends

Camilla Rossing, head of the Norwegian Institute for Bunad and Folk Costume, says that the bunad has been consistently popular over the past 20 years.

At the same time, she points to some new, slightly contradictory trends in the last five years.

– More children want to personify or individualize their clothes. It may also be so that it fits better with their aesthetic taste. In many ways we have always seen this, but I think they go further now than before, says Rossing.

At the same time, the institute hears of several people who like to inherit bunad, instead of getting a new one.

– Another positive trend is the young people’s interest and heart for climate, the environment and textiles made from natural materials. They focus on reuse, sewing and are very interested in traditional crafts.

More variety than before

Personalization is something they also notice at Norske Bunader.

Thyrum browses through a multitude of floral shirts in all the colors of the rainbow.

– These have become very popular. So are the silk shirts in different colours. There are no shirts that originally belong to the different types of clothing, but many choose to vary a little.

– What are you doing on May 18?

– Then there are many who have a well-deserved day off for a few days, and then the sales start again.

In addition, those who may have been a bit unlucky and got cigarette embers or spilled something on the bunad on 17 May, explains Thyrum.

– And those who discovered that the bunade was a bit tight around the waist, and would like to sew it out.